Guide To Planting Roses
Position Them Well
Prepare Your Soil With Loving Care
When planting roses, use Bumper Crop, Master Nursery Bumper Crop Starter Fertilizer, and Bonide Root & Grow.
Bumper Crop® Soil Builder enriches the soil, providing essential nutrients. Master Nursery Bumper Crop Starter Fertilizer is blended with beneficial soil microbes, including mycorrhizal fungi, to promote plant success. Our Bumper Crop Natural & Organic Starter Food combines natural ingredients designed to help newly transplanted plants develop strong roots and healthy growth. It is rich in natural sources of phosphate, which aids in establishing a solid foundation for future development. Our gentle, non-burning formula is safe for even the most delicate transplants.
Bonide® Root & Grow is a rooting hormone that stimulates root growth and helps prevent transplant shock.
Plant Them The Right Depth
In Central Ohio, roses should be planted deeper than most other plants, which are typically set at a depth equal to the root ball. For roses, the graft bud union (the swollen area at the base of the rose) should be planted 2 to 4 inches deeper than the soil level. This depth helps protect the rose from freezing during severe winters. The exception is Own Root Roses, which should be planted at the same level as the existing soil.
Bareroot:
Roses can be planted as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring. Before planting, soak bare-root roses in a bucket of water for 8-12 hours to help rehydrate the roots. The entire plant may be immersed to rehydrate the canes. After soaking, trim off any damaged or diseased roots.
Dig planting holes wide and deep enough to comfortably accommodate the plant's roots. Position the plant so that the bud union is at soil level. Fill the hole about two-thirds full with soil and add water to create a slurry that seeps between the roots. Avoid tamping the soil, as this can compact it and disrupt soil structure. After the water has drained, add more soil and repeat the watering process until the original soil level is reached. Since the soil is loose, the plant will settle a little after planting, positioning the bud union 1-2 inches below the soil level. This depth is beneficial for roses growing in northern climates, as it provides some winter protection for the bud union.
The canes of dormant, newly planted bare-root roses need protection from drying winds, and care should be taken to encourage maximum bud break. To achieve this, create a temporary soil mound over the canes to a depth of about 8-10 inches. This process is known as "sweating" and maintains moisture around the canes to stimulate bud break. Leave the soil in place for about 2-3 weeks or until new growth begins. Once growth starts, gently wash away the soil with a hose to prevent disturbing the new growth. Other effective methods include wrapping the canes in moist burlap or mounding them with sphagnum moss. Some rose growers use brown paper grocery bags for sweating their roses.
To use the bag method, place the bag upside down over the plant. Cut two slits in the top and anchor the bottom with soil. After growth begins, slowly remove the bag starting by enlarging the slits, eventually taking it off completely. Sweating only applies to newly planted bare-root roses and is not repeated each spring. Avoid using plastic bags for sweating, as heat buildup can harm or even kill the rose plant.
Potted Roses:
Potted roses are the easiest to plant because they are already growing. They can be planted throughout the growing season, providing flexibility. If you purchase a potted rose early in the season and most of the soil falls away when removing the pot, plant it as you would a bare-root rose. However, if you buy a potted rose late in the season, its roots may have completely filled the pot and become entangled. In this case, loosen or cut the roots before planting to prevent them from continuing to grow in a circular pattern, which can hinder their spread into the garden.
Aim to maintain 3-5 healthy canes per plant, pruning each cane back to 3-5 buds. Remove any canes that are thinner than a pencil. The buds, which appear as raised oval areas on the cane, are easy to identify. Roots may also need trimming to remove damaged parts or to fit the planting hole. If the plant has broken dormancy, trim any soft, succulent white shoots back to 1/8 inch before planting.
Overall, potted roses are user-friendly for planting since they are already established and can be planted any time during the growing season, making transplantation into the ground more straightforward.
Spacing
A general rule of thumb suggests that roses should be planted about 24 inches apart, or at a distance of approximately two-thirds of their expected height. This spacing may vary depending on the type of rose being planted. Old garden roses will require more space between them, while miniature varieties can be planted closer together. Allowing sufficient space between plants promotes good air circulation, which is an essential first step in controlling diseases.
Watering
Water newly planted roses 2 to 3 times per week until they are established. Once they are established, provide them with a deep watering of 2 inches once a week. However, during extremely warm periods, you may need to water them twice a week.
Always water at the base of the plants to keep the foliage dry and help prevent diseases. Well-hydrated roses are more resistant to diseases, as water deprivation can stress the plants, making them more susceptible to pests and illnesses. If you cannot water at the base, try to water early in the day so that the roses have time to dry before nightfall.
Make sure to water thoroughly before and after feeding or treating the plants with any substances. Roses enjoy water, but avoid overwatering them. They do not like to sit in water, and excessive moisture in the soil, especially during winter, can lead to their demise. The ideal soil for roses is rich, loose, and provides good drainage. One of the biggest mistakes you can make is failing to ensure adequate drainage.





